Friday, May 14, 2010

The Smoke and Mirrors of Audio and Video Cables

Here's a common scenario: you just picked up some new electronic gizmo off the shelf at your favorite local electronics retail outlet, and you've got a sales guy "helping" you. He proceeds to tell you that if don't get this magical $80 cable, your purchase is going to look or sound no better than that $20 piece of garbage sitting a few feet down the shelf that looks like it'd fall apart if you breathed on it. Is he telling the truth, or is it a farcical sales pitch?

In the A/V cable world, there seems to be no end to cable selections. Take speaker cable, for example. You could get your average 14AWG speaker wire for around $0.50/ft, or you could splurge a bit and get AudioQuest's speaker cable for $9400 for 3 feet. Somewhere in between lies a plethora of cable options, not to mention all of the marketing telling you how each manufacturer's cable is better than the "leading competitor". How are you able to tell what you actually need and what's just a waste of money? As one of my engineering profs liked to say, "V=IR. You've got all the components, just bang it out!"

Let me explain. Any audio or video signal is really just an electrical signal. Electrical signals really don't like resistance. If you have too much resistance, your signal isn't going to get to the destination like it was intended. Look back at that equation: V=IR, where V is voltage, I is current, and R is resistance. If you make R large while V stays constant, I has to decrease (no, that's not a grammatical mistake, I'm talking about current, not me, you nimwit). You might ask something like, "What causes this resistance, and how do I get rid of it?" Thanks for asking, I was about to answer that! About all you have to do is make sure you have the right wire size for the right job. The larger the wire, the less resistance. If you pick too small a wire for the current you're throwing through the wire and the length of your run, you'll get too much resistance. If you're talking about speaker wires, your lows won't hit as hard and your highs will sound a little muddled.

Speaker wires are an easy one because the signal being sent to the speaker is a higher voltage than most other A/V signals. Another problem with cables is their ability to pick up RF (radio frequency) noise. This may be a feature depending on the cable's intended use (say, a radio antenna). All cables essentially are an antenna, and this RF noise induces a small voltage and current in a wire. The longer the cable, the more RF noise it will pick up. In pretty much all scenarios (save for that antenna), this is a bad thing. Since an audio amplifier is putting out a signal with a higher voltage compared to a CD player, the speaker signal is less affected by that small induced voltage than the CD player signal. The RF noise on the CD player signal is a larger percentage of the actual signal's strength. While this is a problem with professional installations where cables are commonly run 100' or more, you most likely won't run in to this if you're setting up your own home theater or sound system. Cables usually have some sort of built in shielding from this RF noise, and this is good enough for short runs.

I would like to caveat myself here, though. Under some certain circumstances, you can really shoot yourself in the foot. That circumstance looks something like this. Or if you create a huge magnetic field by wrapping a power cable up in a loop and running a signal cable through it. That would do it too.

Aside from those instances, you won't notice much of a difference. Suffice it to say that if you got a range of decent quality cables together and had a critical listening session with an unbiased audiophile (one not biased by paychecks from supporting companies or by the IJustBoughtThisMillionDollarCableSoItMustSoundBetter syndrome), there would be no audible difference. Sure, there might be a lab test measurable difference, but can any human actually hear that difference? The answer is usually no. I have actually heard of tests done with a metal clothes hanger pitted against high-dollar audiophile speaker cable (think of that $80 cable the sales guy told you that you just have to buy). Yep, no difference. It's all about resistance, and if you have picked a large enough wire for the distance you're going, you won't hear any improvement (unless you have that aforementioned syndrome).

It gets even better when you talk about digital signals. Think of digital TV over-the-air broadcasts. You either get a signal or you don't. There aren't any in betweens like analog TV, where you could get a perfect picture, complete static, or anything between the two. Digital signals are either there or they aren't. Sure there can be a DC offset voltage induced or some RF noise, but because of digital circuitry, most of that disappears when it gets interpreted by the receiving device. This is one of the main reasons why digital signal transmission works much better in non-ideal circumstances compared to analog transmission. If you're dealing with analog video cabling, the picture will depend upon the length of the cable. If you have two video displays hooked up with analog video cables, one cable being 3' long and the other being 50' long, the same image will look different because of the signal loss caused by the longer cable (longer cable equals higher resistance). If you had the same two computers hooked up with DVI (digital) cables, run the same distances as before, you wouldn't notice a picture difference.

Here is also an example of my point before about resistance. Some of you nerds out there (FOSO!!!) will have already thought something along the lines of, "Hey wait a minute, you can only run DVI 15 feet!" That is true, but some manufacturers have found ways to make the cable such that you can run longer than that 15' limitation. The secret there lies with...can you guess? Larger gauge wire! These cables are easily twice as thick as the DVI cable that came with your monitor. If you start pushing the limits of a digital video signal, you will start to see "green sparklies" right before you lose signal. These sparklies (yes, that's a technical term) are really just artifacts of data not being there when the receiving device expects it to be there.

So what does this all boil down to? Parts Express and Monoprice. Don't spend lots of money on cables and don't run audio or video cables right next to (or through loops of) power cords.

Further reading if you made it this far and are looking for some more punishment.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Topics, please

Ok so I haven't posted in a bit.  I have a few topics in the works, but PLEASE comment and leave some topics that you'd like me to touch on!  Computers, cars, audio, video, I'll tackle it.  Thanks!

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Spatial Audio: Beyond Surround Sound

Here's an article that some of you may find interesting, covering 3D visuals and 3D audio.  It's about a university that recently got built in Saudi Arabia and the visualization lab that was installed in one of the buildings.  It's pretty intense.

Saturday, February 27, 2010

Google Searching

Google has done some amazing things with their search engine, and I find that many people have no idea what the capabilities are.  Below are some that I use a lot.  The actual thing you need to type will be in bold, and any search words you need to add are in brackets.

"[insert a phrase here]"
Searching with some words with quotes around it will search for that exact phrase.  For example, search for "printer paper" if you want to find all web pages with the exact phrase "printer paper" instead of pages with the words "printer" and "paper" separately.  A search with just printer paper would turn up the latter pages.

+[keyword] +[keyword]
This will ensure that both search words are included.  I find that it seems sometimes words are excluded, and this forces the engine to include both of those words

[keyword] -[keyword]
Using the "-" symbol in front of a word will exclude that word from being in a page that comes up.  For instance, if you're looking for a used car, but not a Cadillac, you might search for used car -cadillac (as a side note, case means nothing to a search engine, except for boolean operations, covered next).

[keyword] OR [keyword]
You're looking for something specific, but it's called two different things.  To bring up all pages that have both names, use OR between the words.  For instance, a AA alkaline battery is also called an LR6, so search something like battery aa OR lr6.  This is one of the few cases where case matters - "or" MUST be in caps, otherwise Google will think you're looking for the word "or" in the web page.

inurl:[domain name here] [keyword]
This one is amazingly useful for web sites that have a horrible search on them.  Say you're having a hard time finding a Samsung article on Engadget.  Your search may look something like inurl:engadget.com samsung.  This will find any web page that has "engadget.com" in the URL and also has "Samsung" on the page.  Sure, you may have a few pages come up that just happen to have engadget.com in the URL but aren't part of Engadget's website, but those usually won't be too common.

define:[word you need defined]
This one is amazingly simple and awesome.  Say you don't know what dubious means.  Just type in define:dubious and a bunch of definitions from around the web come up.  This is also useful for defining acronyms you may not know.  Sure, you have to pick through a bunch that may be wrong, but using context clues, you can usually come up with the right ones.

[number][currency] to [currency]
This one is a little hard to explain without an example.  Say you're travelling to Europe, and you want to know how much something costs in US dollars.  The thing you're looking at is 100 Euros, so type in 100eur to usd.  This will give you the going rate at that point in time for 100 Euros.  It's not exactly accurate and shouldn't be used as such, but it will give you a pretty darn good idea of what the conversion rate is.  You can also just do searches like us dollar to euros to tell you how many Euros are in one US dollar.

[store name or type] near [place]
Say you need to find a Best Buy pronto, and you can't find your copy of the phone book (or you're in some weird place you've never been before).  Just go type in Best Buy near San Diego, CA and Google will bring up the closest Best Buys.  This can also be used for things like appliance near San Diego, CA to bring up any appliance stores near there.  Yes, I just picked a random city.  Yes, I would absolutely love to be there right now.

weather in [place]
You've just looked up the nearest Best Buy in San Diego, but you want to see what the weather is like before you step out the door.  If it really is San Diego, you probably don't need to actually check the weather, cuz it's always 60-70ยบ and sunny, but for the example, let's play along.  Type in weather in San Diego, CA and the weather will be shown.  For big cities, you usually don't need to type in the state.

[mathematical expression]
You're stuck without a calculator and can't find the shortcut to the calculator on your computer.  What's a person to do?  Go to Google and type in 36164*4 (or whatever you need, obviously) and Google uses mathmagics to get the answer!

time [place]
Someone you know is travelling to Japan, and you want to Skype them, but you don't know what time it is there.  Type in time Japan and Google will tell you the current time in Japan.

Those are a few of the search operations that make life a lot easier.  These coupled with Google Chrome, cuz you can just type searches in the address bar, puts information in front of you that much faster.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Internet Browsers

When it comes to internet browsers, there's no shortage: Internet Explorer, Firefox, Chrome, Opera, and Safari to name a few of the popular ones.  Their job is all the same - to let you view the web and all of its content.  However, some do it better than others.  I'll talk a little about the three that I have used most here: Internet Explorer, Firefox, and Chrome.

Internet Explorer
This is the most popular browser, if only because it's the one that comes installed on every Windows computer.  It is also by FAR the slowest of all browsers.  IE 8 closed the gap, but it's still far off from all other browsers in browsing speed.  If you compare speed tests of IE 8 vs. IE 7, the results are astoundingly bad for IE 7.  If anyone reading this is still using IE 6, you really, really, really need to upgrade.  Web developers are all but dropping support for it, so it's time to upgrade. Best of all, it's free (so are all these other browsers for that matter).  The good thing about IE is that it's compatible with about everything on the web.

Firefox
This is the browser that I used for quite some time until Chrome came out.  It's a little slower on initial startup than IE, but works a lot faster than IE once it's open.  Firefox does have (or at least did) some memory leak issues, so it will use a little more (ok, sometimes a lot more) memory than other browsers though.  Compatibility is generally pretty good, but you will find some pages that Firefox just doesn't agree with.

Chrome
This is and has been my browser of choice since it came out.  I remember being shocked at how fast it opened the first time I ran it.  It didn't fail to surprise even more when I continued to browse.  Chrome is compatible with most web sites, but just like anything other than IE, you'll find some stuff that it just won't do.  I much prefer to use Chrome whenever possible, but I do go back to Firefox or occasionally IE if some site doesn't work the way it's supposed to.  The biggest issue I've had with any browser other than IE is Adobe Reader, but that pile of junk doesn't want to work with anything most of the time.  Little tip - get the Chrome extension that appends a little URL in front of any PDF link to read any linked PDF in Google Docs viewer, and your PDF woes with Adobe Reader will be a thing of the past.  One of my favorite things about Chrome is the ability to type a few keywords in the address bar, hit enter, and see results of a Google search.  All in all, Chrome has my vote of best browser.

Here are some benchmarks from ZDNet.  They show Safari ahead of Chrome, but I remember seeing some more recent benchmarks (linked ones are pretty old) showing Chrome pulling ahead.  That may have changed again since I last saw, though.  If you're feeling adventurous, try out some of these or other browsers and comment about your thoughts!

Monday, February 22, 2010

Garage Heating and Car Work

A very valuable lesson was learned tonight.  I have a 900 sq. ft. or so garage heated with a propane heater.  I am in the middle of replacing the Ranger brakes, a process that I started yesterday and had to leave the Ranger up on jack stands because I got the wrong size rear shoes, but that's another story.  I had started coughing pretty bad a few times last night, and didn't really think much of it since it's really cold.  Tonight it got bad again, and I realized that it was right after I was spraying brake cleaner.  I then made the connection between brake cleaner and a propane heater - probably not the best combination.  So to all you guys that work on your cars in the winter with a heated garage - watch what chemicals you're spraying!  If you have to use brake cleaner (i.e. if you're doing a brake job), try de-chlorinated brake cleaner - it may help a little.  A carbon monoxide detector probably wouldn't be a bad idea either.

From a forum about using brake cleaner... "
I know not to have the propane heater going, you'll end up with the worst hangover in the morning."  Sweet...

Saturday, February 20, 2010

3D in Your Home!

Many TV's now being sold have the capability to display 3D (also known as "stereo," much like stereo audio for your ears).  Within the past few months, a 3D Blu-ray standard was settled on, so you'll be seeing some 3D Blu-ray players soon.  If you happen to be an early adopter of both of those, you'll still be waiting on 3D content to come out on Blu-ray.

To solve this problem, you could pick up nVidia's 3D Vision package.  This is a box set that comes with an infrared emitter, 3D glasses, and some drivers.  With this package, you can run any game you have one your computer in 3D.  Yes, that's right, you read correctly - any game you currently have on your computer can be viewed in 3D on a 3D capable display.  Nvidia has some 3D ready displays listed on their website, but you'll be seeing a lot more soon.  This year at CES (Consumer Electronics Show, which I had the privilege of going to this year), every TV manufacturer was pushing their 3D displays.  Some even could be making the nVidia package obsolete, as the Samsung 2010 model 3D-ready displays can take any 2D content and turn it into 3D real-time.  Neither of these are really great stereo, but it is 3D.

I doubt that 3D will catch on in homes quickly, but I believe that it will eventually.  Marketing departments have a lot of informing to do in the meantime.  Most people have never seen good stereo, and until the general public either sees good stereo or is well informed of it, adoption in homes will be limited.  Movie theater stereo is getting better, but what you would buy for your home would be active stereo instead of the movie theater polarized stereo.  See my blog post on "3D Video Explained" for more about this.  Active stereo is much better than polarized stereo, so in-home 3D has a good chance of being much better than a movie theater if you can deal with not having a huge cinematic display, unless of course you opt for a nice 3D projector - then you can just have it all.